Why this recipe works: We coax earthy, meaty flavors from humble supermarket mushrooms by coarsely chopping half of them to lend more surface area and create more of the flavorful fond. After deglazing the pan with a little white wine, we add water and pasta to the pot so the pasta can absorb the flavorful liquid as it cooks. A vigorous stir for 1 minute draws out starch from the pasta and adds body and structure to the sauce.

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• 12 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed
• 12 ounces white mushrooms, trimmed
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• Salt and pepper
• 2 shallots, minced
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh sage
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1/4 ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed and chopped fine
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 4 cups water plus 1/4 cup hot water
• 12 ounces (3 3/4 cups) campanelle, penne, or fusilli
• 2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (1 cup), plus extra for serving
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

1. Coarsely chop half of shiitake mushrooms and white mushrooms; then quarter remaining shiitake mushrooms and white mushrooms. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add all shiitake mushrooms and white mushrooms (both chopped and quartered) and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until mushrooms release their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all liquid has evaporated and mushrooms begin to brown, about 10 minutes.
2. Add shallots, sage, garlic, and porcini mushrooms and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add wine and cook until evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in 4 cups water, pasta, and 1 1/4 teaspoons salt and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until pasta is tender, 12 to 15 minutes.
3. Off heat, stir in Pecorino, 1/4 cup hot water, lemon juice, remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Stir vigorously for 1 minute, until sauce is thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving dish and sprinkle with chives. Serve, passing extra Pecorino separately.

• If you can’t find shiitake mushrooms, cremini mushrooms can be substituted or white mushrooms can be used exclusively, but don’t omit the dried porcini. Parmesan cheese can be substituted for the Pecorino Romano.
• Chopping half the mushrooms creates more fond for a flavorful sauce; quartering the rest gives big, meaty mushroom texture.