Why this recipe works: Getting perfectly cooked pasta and gooey melted cheese from the slow cooker takes some technique. Precooked pasta turned mushy after hours in the slow cooker, but putting the pasta in raw didn’t work much better. Instead, we take a cue from risotto and quickly sauté raw ziti with cooked sausage before putting them both in the slow cooker—coating the starch in fat protects it from swelling and overcooking. Topping the casserole with cheese after cooking and then letting it sit in the turned-off cooker allows the cheese to melt and heat through without separating. A foil collar keeps the pasta “bake” from burning around the edges as it cooks.

• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 lb hot Italian sausage, casings removed
• 1 onion, chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄2 teaspoon pepper
• 8 ounces ziti pasta
• 1 (28 ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• 1 (15 ounce) can tomato sauce
• 8 ounces whole milk ricotta cheese
• 4 ounces mozzarella cheese, shredded (1 cup)
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Make aluminum foil collar for slow cooker by folding 2 (18-inch-long) pieces of foil to make 2 (18 by 4-inch) strips. Line perimeter of slow cooker with foil strips and spray with vegetable oil spray.
2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook sausage, breaking up pieces with spoon, until well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add onion and cook until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute.
3. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add ziti and cook, stirring constantly, until edges of pasta become translucent, about 4 minutes. Off heat, stir in crushed tomatoes and tomato sauce, scraping up any browned bits. Transfer mixture to prepared slow cooker. Cover and cook on low until pasta is tender, about 3 hours.
4. Using tongs, remove foil collar from slow cooker and stir gently to redistribute pasta. Dollop ricotta over ziti and sprinkle with mozzarella. Cover and let sit for 20 minutes to let cheeses melt. Garnish with basil and serve.