Milk Street: No matter what it costs, a holiday roast should taste decadent. So we challenged ourselves to transform a thrifty, low-cost cut into a lush, celebratory meal. The answer was eye round, a roast often deemed too lean to be tender. The cut is taken from the hind leg of a steer, so there’s little marbling, the usual key to keeping meat moist. To roast this tough cut and get succulent, perfectly cooked results, we marinated the meat in ingredients that would do the work for us. We started with a sticky, sweet puree of prunes. That may sound unusual, but prunes are high in hygroscopic sorbitol and fructose, which—along with salt and soy sauce—amplify the way the meat absorbs flavor. The puree also adhered well to the roast, promoting moisture retention and a caramelized crust. Ketchup and anchovies added rich umami, while rosemary, thyme and black peppercorns provided a familiar holiday backdrop. To boost the marinade’s effect, we poked the roast repeatedly with a fork. And trimming the silver skin and fat from the roast also helped keep it tender. The roast beef tasted best after marinating for 48 hours, but 24 will work, too. Thinly sliced and served with a fresh horseradish sauce, the eye round was as toothsome as beef tenderloin, without the expense.
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Preheat: 275° | Yield: 10 servings | |
Prep: 0:15 | Wait: 48:30 | Cook: 2:00 |
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