Fine Cooking 50 - Risotto alla Milanese (Risotto with Parmesan & Saffron): While it would be unfair to say that this is the risotto after which all others are derived—the Venetians provide plenty of competition—its lovely simplicity is hard to match. If you're uneasy about risotto, this is a good recipe to start with because it's simple and requires so few ingredients.

• 1 medium onion, very finely chopped
• 8 Tbs. unsalted butter
• 1 lb. (2 cups) arborio, vialone nano, or carnaroli rice, or other medium- or short-grain Italian rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 6 cups hot homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth; more as needed
• 1/2 tsp. saffron threads
• 1 cup finely grated parmesan, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. In a heavy-based saucepan that's large enough to hold the rice with plenty of room left over, cook the onion in 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat until it's translucent and fragrant, about 5 minutes.
2. Stir in the rice and cook it over medium heat for about 3 minutes. Add the wine, 2 cups of broth, and the saffron. Turn the heat to high until the broth comes to a simmer and then adjust the heat to maintain a steady simmer.
3. Cook until most of the liquid has been absorbed, stirring every minute or two (there's no need to stir constantly). Add another cup of broth and keep cooking, stirring, and adding broth until the rice is al dente but not raw or grainy in the middle (see tip on Stirring risotto).
4. When the rice is ready, stir in the cheese. Add a little more broth to give the risotto the consistency you like (from fairly tight to almost soupy). Off the heat, stir in the remaining 6 tablespoons butter. Season with salt and pepper and ladle onto heated plates or bowls.

• Tip: If you have any leftover risotto, it's delicious made into crunchy Risotto Cakes.