Why This Recipe Works: Roasted fruit can easily become colorless and mushy or burned and crunchy without a correct method. By starting our fruit over direct heat we were able to evaporate some of the juices released by the fruit that would otherwise get in the way of proper caramelization. Finishing the fruit in the oven allows the ambient heat to cook through the fruit while the fruit continues to darken in color.

• 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 4 ripe but firm Bosc pears, (6 to 7 ounces each), peeled, halved, and cored
• 1 1/4 cups dry white wine
• 1/2 cup dried apricots, quartered
• 1/3 cup (2 1/3 ounces) sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1/8 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• 1/3 cup pistachios, toasted and chopped

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Melt 1 1/2 tablespoons butter in ovensafe 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Place pear halves, cut side down, in skillet. Cook, without moving them, until pears are just beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Transfer skillet to oven and roast pears for 15 minutes. Using tongs, flip pears and continue to roast until fork easily pierces fruit, 10 to 15 minutes longer (skillet handle will be hot).
3. Using tongs, transfer pears to platter. Return skillet to medium-high heat and add wine, apricots, sugar, cardamom, salt, and remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Bring to vigorous simmer, whisking to scrape up any browned bits. Cook until sauce is reduced and has consistency of maple syrup, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove pan from heat and stir in lemon juice.
4. Pour sauce over pears, sprinkle with pistachios, and serve.

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHEN:

• Select pears that yield slightly near the stem when pressed. We prefer Bosc pears in this recipe, but Comice and Bartlett pears also work.
• The fruit can be served as is or with vanilla ice cream or plain Greek yogurt.