Fine Cooking 106

For the soup

• Two 13.5- to 14-oz. cans coconut milk
• 1 Tbs. red curry paste
• 6 cups lower-salt chicken broth
• 3 stalks lemongrass, lightly smashed
• 8 (1/8-inch-thick) slices peeled fresh ginger
• 1/4 cup fresh lime juice
• 2 Tbs. fish sauce
• 1 tsp. granulated sugar
• Kosher salt
• 2 cups oyster mushrooms, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch strips
• 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved

For the tea-smoked shrimp

• 1/4 cup Thai or whole-leaf jasmine tea
• 1/4 cup rice, preferably jasmine
• 1/4 cup light brown sugar
• 1-3/4 lb. jumbo shrimp (21 to 25 per lb.; preferably wild), peeled and deveined
• Kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. minced cilantro stems

For assembly

• 8 oz. rice noodles (flat or vermicelli), soaked in room-temperature water for 30 minutes to 1 hour
• 1/4 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves
• 2 wild lime leaves, vein removed, cut into short fine threads (optional)

Make the soup

1. In a 4-quart pot, simmer 1/2 cup of the coconut milk over medium heat, stirring often until it reduces by half and thickens, 1 to 2 minutes. Wisk in the curry paste until dissolved, about 1 minute. Add the remaining coconut milk, chicken broth, lemongrass, and ginger. Raise the heat to medium high, bring to a boil, and then reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes.
2. Strain into another 4-quart pot. Stir in the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Season to taste with more salt. Add the mushrooms and cherry tomatoes and set aside.

Smoke the shrimp

1. Soak thirteen 8-inch bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes.
2. Put the tea, rice, and sugar in the center of a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil. (If using thinner foil, use 2 or 3 layers.) Fold the foil loosely to form a flat packet.
3. Prepare a medium-high gas or charcoal grill fire. Clean and oil the grill grate; set aside. Set the tea-smoking packet directly on the hot coals or on top of a metal burner shield. Put the grate back on the grill and close the lid. On a charcoal grill, leave the vents partially open and wait for smoke to rise from the vents. On a gas grill, wait 10 minutes, then open the lid to check for smoke. If there is none, close the lid and check again in a few minutes.
4. Meanwhile, pat the shrimp dry with paper towels. Thread three shrimp onto each skewer, season with salt, and sprinkle with the cilantro stems.
5. Arrange the shrimp skewers on the grill grate so they’re not directly over the packet, and then close the lid. Smoke the shrimp, flipping once, until just cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes total. Remove the shrimp from the skewers, cut them in half lengthwise, and set aside.

Assemble the soup

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the soaked noodles and cook, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well and divide among 8 large bowls (about 1 cup of noodles in each). Reheat the soup and pour about 1-1/2 cups into each bowl, evenly distributing the mushrooms and tomatoes. Divide the shrimp among the bowls and garnish with the cilantro leaves and wild lime leaves (if using).

• Feel free to substitute other types of curry paste, such as yellow, green, or even the sweet and spiced massaman. Any cooked noodles (or pasta) can work in this recipe.