Why this recipe works: In Oklahoma, a burger isn’t a burger without a mound of thinly sliced onion pressed into a thin, crispy patty as it sizzles on the fast-food griddle. To make them at home, we sliced and salted the onions, then squeezed the moisture out of them so they’d easily stick onto the burger. Starting the burger over a moderate heat enabled us to brown the exterior of the onions while the interior softened. Add a slice of American cheese and these burgers will taste like they’re straight from the griddle.

• 1 large onion, halved and sliced 1/8 inch thick
• salt and pepper
  • (Use season-salt and garlic powder too?)
• 12 oz 85 percent lean ground beef
• 1 T unsalted butter
• 1 tsp vegetable oil
• 4 slices of American cheese
• 4 hamburger buns, buttered and toasted

1. Combine onion and 1 tsp salt in a bowl and toss to combine (I did not do this, as I fried my onions up instead). transfer to a colander and let sit for 30 minutes, tossing occasionally. Using tongs, transfer onion to clean dish towel, gather edges and squeeze onion dry. Sprinkle with 1/2 tsp pepper.
2. Divide onion mixture into 4 separate mounds on a rimmed baking sheet. Form beef into 4 lightly packed balls and season with salt and pepper. Place beef balls on top of onion mounds and flatten beef firmly so that the onion adheres and patties measure 4 inches in diameter.
3. Melt butter with oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Using spatula, transfer patties to skillet, onion side down, and cook until onion is deep golden brown and beginning to crisp around the edges, 6-8 minutes. Flip burgers, increase their heat to high and cook until well browned on the 2nd side, about 2 minutes. Place 1 slice of cheese on each bottom bun. Place burgers on buns, add desired toppings and serve.

A mandoline makes quick work of slicing the onion thinly. Squeeze the salted onion slices until they’re as dry as possible, or they won’t adhere to the patties. These burgers are traditionally served with yellow mustard and slices of dill pickle.