Milk Street Says: We found the oil needed a full 3 minutes at a gentle medium heat to get hot enough to produce the necessary steam when the eggs hit the pan. Higher temperatures cooked the eggs too fast, toughening them. After multiple tests, we settled on 2 tablespoons of oil in the pan, which was enough to coat the bottom of the skillet and flavor the eggs without making them greasy. Mixing the salt into the eggs before cooking is the best way to season them. And while you certainly can add pepper at this point, too, we preferred it ground fresh, just before serving.

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 large eggs
• Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1. In a 12-inch nonstick or seasoned carbon-steel skillet over medium heat, heat the oil until just beginning to smoke, about 3 minutes.
2. While the oil heats, in a bowl use a fork to whisk the eggs and ¾ teaspoon kosher salt until blended and foamy on top.
3. Pour the eggs into the center of the pan. Using a rubber spatula, continuously stir the eggs, pushing them toward the middle as they begin to set around the edges and folding the cooked egg over on itself.
4. Cook until the eggs are just set, 60 to 90 seconds. (The curds should appear shiny, wet and soft, but no translucent, runny egg should be visible.) Immediately transfer to warmed plates and season with salt and black pepper.

1. Ordered List ItemTip: Don’t warm your plates too much. It sounds minor, but hot plates will continue to cook the eggs, making them tough and dry. Cold plates will cool the eggs too fast. The plates should be warm to the touch, but not so hot that you can’t comfortably hold them.